July 10, 2009

lady marmalade

so, last weekend my friend sent me off to buy some eggs at the FARMER'S MARKET just a couple of blocks away from his place. he handed me five bucks and off i ran. i returned 30 minutes later.

"just a couple of blocks away? 30 minutes later?" you ask?

well, yes! of course! going to a farmer's market isn't like running down to your corner store to pick up a "loaf of bread, a gallon of milk and a stick of buttah"! (does anybody remember this from sesame street?)">

it's a farmer's market! i'm a CHEF! are you kidding me? lol! besides that, the farmer's markets here are awesome! i am blessed to live in a place that produces (amongst many other things!) such amazing produce! of course i had to have a lookie-loo around! aside from the large, fresh brown eggs that i was sent out to get, i came back with a couple of other items: the most amazingly beautiful and fragrant purple basil for...well, at the time i didn't know for what...but i just had to have some...it's "basil season" for cryin' out loud! i also came away with a 10lb. sack of seville oranges. typically, citrus is best in the fall and winter seasons. but when i saw the sign for these oranges and could see that they looked pretty darned good, "marmalade" popped into my head and i had to have me some! but until i, chef davis, made the goo myself, i'd have to go on "preserve reserve". that's the problem with grocery shopping when you're hungry!


anyway, i finally made the stuff last night and it's pretty darned yummy! i recall making orange marmalade when i first started in pastry-land with Earl Darney (now owner of Lotta's Bakery) at BAYWOLF restaurant. i also recall that it was pretty darned easy! but you know how the mind works, or doesn't work, as the years go by and i hadn't ever made marmalade but that one time which was nearly 10 years ago. recollections collected, i elected to quickly cross-reference for correction. "epicurious.com" here i come! well, i found gobs of recipes for marmalade....as a component in another dish! i began to check them out and, wouldn't you know, every bloody recipe called out for marmalade...FROM A JAR! finally, i came across a scratch recipe that looked pretty darned good! except it was WAY more complicated than that of my "recollects"!

by this time, i'd already spent a good 10 minutes looking for recipes for comparison...and if you know me, that was about 5 minutes too long. frustrated, i blurted out, "screw it! i'm just going to do it!" and, boy, did i do it! ...and then some!

ORANGE MARMALADE W/ VARIATIONS

5 lbs. seville oranges
5 c. sugar
1 c. oj

at the end of cooking, add to taste if needed:
smidge of kosher salt
a little lemon juice to "brighten" it up

NOTE: add to and prep the same as the oranges: 2 eureka lemons, 2 meyer lemons.

wash the oranges. no mold, dirt or schmegma of any kind, please! slice into 1/8" rounds. i cut the stem-side off completely just down far enough until the "flesh" began to show it's pulpy head! slice slice slice! and when my little fingers couldn't hold on to the darned thing any longer, i just fliped'er on the flat side and sliced up the rest in the same manner. it don't mattah! (IDM) it's all gonna get cooked down all schmoosheey-like anyway....right? after slicin' those puppies up, i quickly went thru and removed the seeds...the big'uns anyway. i didn't worry too much about the littl'uns...isn't that one of M's endearing qualities? a little seedy! (bah-dump-BAH!)

slide that citrus and all the juicy goodness on your cutting board into a heavy pot! i used my 8 qt. all-clad. add the sugar, sugar! followed by some juicey-juice...

...to get things rollin, ya know...fire up the burner and away we go. (that's called a "rhyme". it comes naturally.)

cook it down a good long while...'bout an hour and a half - that's 90 minutes, ya'll! (DOWN paula!) meanwhile, start a load of laundry, fold the load of laundry you forgot to take out of the dryer the night before, talk to your friend scott on the phone and so on. oh! and give the pot a good stir from time to time. once the juices reduce down, yer gettin' close to wrappin' this baby up.

and here's a thought: do not attempt in an aluminum pot!!! (see? rhyming is easy...just like cooking.)

"how do you know it's done, chef john?"

here are two done-ness tests:

1) the "wrinkle" test - (see below)
2) the candy thermometer test - concoction should register somewheres in the 220ish range.

"wrinkle" test: place a small plate in the freezer for a few minutes unless, of course, you have plates in the freezer already. KUDOS, you! you're ahead of the game! pull plate from freezer, spoon out some of the marmalade onto the plate. next, hold the plate up vertically as if you were going to hang the thing on your wall. then ask yourself,

"is it too high? too low? is it straight? does it even go with the decor in this room? hmmmm...."

all great questions! but a better question is,

"is da jammy-jam slippidy-slip-sliding all around?" (and i know that's hard to say)

OR...

"is it wrinkly?"

ANSWER(S): if your piece of art ends up on the floor, it needs more time in the ole pot...unless, of course you like sticky persian rugs. but if it resembles moving molten lava where the front-running edge dashes off and then slows down followed by the buildup up from behind that wants to get thru to see what all the excitement is about but then realizes there's nothing to see so it slows down and so forth and so on, thereby creating this "wrinkle" upon "wrinkle" look, then by golly, it's jam! i wonder if this is where the term "traffic jam" comes from? or perhaps the inspiration behind revitalizing clay masques? these questions i cannot answer. finish the marmalade by rounding out the flavors...smidge of kosher salt...a splash of lemon juice.

VARIATIONS

below are some variations i made with just some other things i had in the fridge or cabinet...use whatever you like...swing it in whatever direction you want...whether sweet (for toast, dessert, french toast) or savory (thai, spanish, fish, pork, vinaigrette, cheese/crackers, dip, marinade)...use your imagination!

1) small dice dried pineapple and orange-scented craisins
2) ginger, cinnamon, allspice....more ginger....
3) chili flake, ancho chilli powder, raspberry preserves
4) cardamom
5) toasted, ground fennel seed
6) curry - but not the crap you buy in a store! make your own! i used: turmeric, fennel seed, cumin, corrainder

July 8, 2009

OK...ok okookokokokok

I'm keeping "ChefDavis35" blogspot going....

March 20, 2009

Indulgence: it's soooo easy!

coconut macaroons....bottoms dipped in chocolate...then dipped in toasted almonds!

man! i used to love (and still do) almond joy candy bars as a kid! these are way better...and i'm glad, now, that i was too busy during the holidays to make these....because i made them tonight...FOR DINNER of course!

1 c. egg whites (about 6 large eggs)
2 1/2 c. sugar
2 t. vanilla
2 T. honey

double-boiler fashion, bring the above to temp. i whisk and whistle while i work. heat this mixture to the point where the sugar has just dissolved. how do you know if it's dissolved? well, stick yer fat finger in it, brainiac, and rub it between yer fingers...or lick it off your finger. this isn't rocket science for cryin' out loud! if it still has a granular feeling, then keep going.

in another large bowl, mix the following:

2 1/4 c. flour
1# shredded coconut...nothing fancy...the cheap stuff from the grocery store

once the sugar of the first mixture has dissolved, pour it into the flour/coconut bowl. mix well. chill out! since i refuse to wait any longer than necessary, i spread this gooey mess out onto a cookie sheet and throw it in the fridge. wait 5 minutes and you're ready to rock-n-roll!

ok, so you've pre-heated your oven to 300 degrees. next, i use a little icecream scoop...oh, i dunno, 'bout a tablespoon size scoop or so...spray'er down w/ a little PAM so the gooey mess slips on out easy-peezy-lemon-squeezy. place the scooped ooey-gooeys on a cookie sheet just so. having chilled down properly, these blobs won't spread all over the cookie sheet when baking so you can put'em kinda close together. and, i recommend using parchment paper....or a silpat. MOVING ON....(we have cookies to eat!) throw those babies in the oven (midrack) and set your timer for...well, let's start with 20 minutes. DING! are they done? probably not, but good to check just in case your oven is running hot. my oven certainly was not running hot...i baked my babies for 24 minutes...nice golden bottoms and slightly golden on top! precious! let them chill out a bit before trying to remove from parchment/silpat....they need to set up a smidge.

now, if you wanna hunker down on the cookies as-is, knock yourself out. me? there's gotta be more...it can be better...we have the technology! ok, so while the babies are bakin' away, do the darned dishes!

now, into your original bowl...the one w/ the egg whites-n-stuff...all nice and clean now, throw about half a pound of chocolate chips in it...milk chocolate...dark chocolate...i don't care...whatever you like, and just throw that puppy back onto your double-boiler...or pot of simmering water. it doesn't need to be on...just put it there and let it melt. i said, "let it melt!" reading between the lines, "just let it be...don't be messin' with it...stirring it up ever 5 seconds....just put it on there and leave it!" then, grab a handfull of nuts (easy there, buddy!) like almonds! oh...maybe a cup of nuts or so. throw those DIRECTLY INTO THE TRASH! (you chef/baker folks out there will, i hope, get that totally hilarious joke!) no, but seriously, throw yer nuts into a skillet and pop those into the oven with the cookies....or do this before...or do it after...i don't care...point is, toast yer nuts and give a good chopity-chop!

OK...MOVING ON...so, your chocolate is meltin' away....the coconut gooey-butts are bakin' away...the nuts are toasted, chopped and waitin' for further instruction....most of the dishes are now cleaned and you can almost taste the nummies already. we're in GOOD shape!

the last part is a no-brainer...you know what to do. take your chilled out cookie and dip its little golden booty into the melted chocolate...then dip'er down onto those chopped nuts, place on another cookie sheet lined with parchment...wait a bit for the chocolate to set and CHOW DOWN!

MMM'MMM! SO GOOD! SOOOOOOO EASY...I MEAN...REALLY! i only baked off 30 of these tablespoon-sized cookies and easily consumed 20 of them in 90 seconds. oh..no...what i meant was that i was about 1/3 of the way thru my "dough". so, yer lookin' at about 6 dozen cookies.

now that creating this post as well as catching up on my correspondence has taken half of the night, it's almost breakfast time...and you know what that means? MACAROONS!

UPDATE: i doubled the size of my cookie and cook time was 32 minutes.

March 2, 2009

i want a new god!

so...i've been tapping away at the keyboard with blog stuff but it remains "backstage" because...well...i've learned that i go off on tangents WAY TOO MUCH....and off of those tangents, i digress....from there, you'll find little tangi-gressions...next thing you know, i've written something that resembles or is nearing that of a short story...which isn't really a story at all except to me because i'm crazy and it makes complete and perfect sense and while putting "pen to paper" i'm thinking all the while that everyone is just like me and they'll "get it". but nobody is like me....and the only people in my life that "get me" are angee ...






....and mark.


mark especially...it's FREAKY! a conversation that would take "normal" people 15 minutes to say and which would include (a guess...) 2649 words would only take us a mere 4.7 minutes and using 133 words. is this common? would others find it bewildering? maybe it's a demonstration of psychic abilities or mind reading? or just simple efficiency? i like to think the latter...because i'm all about efficiency...of course, you wouldn't know that about me just yet because the blog post where i talk about how i like efficiency is STILL BEHIND THE CURTAIN WAITING FOR ITS CUE TO ENTER STAGE LEFT! anyway....SEE how i digress? point is...i've a few posts in "draft" mode that are way too long and will, i hope, give birth to lots of cute little tidy non-pooping or crying posts! smoke 'em if you got'em!

MOVING ON...

my goal: just write about one thing...write it once...post it....and leave it.

lots and lots of rain in san fran today. makes me want to sing songs about rain...like...NO! (focus!) it also makes me want to cook comfort food. i've a number of comfort foods....like... (focus!). for dinner tonight, i made a comfort food that my mother would make when i was growing up. it's a dish that is more than likely not found on the top-10 list...or even top-50 of comfort foods for most of you out there. i'm speaking of a dish called "mustocachali". now, i have this recipe written on a typical recipe card in my mother's own handwriting. whenever she said the name of this dish she pronounced it "muska-CHelli" which doesn't sound like how it reads but that is how i pronounce it too. it's a very simple dish. cheap ingredients, quick and easy to make...not fancy. it is what it is. but for me, it's comfort food. it reminds me of a time....a place....a feeling...and it always will. i believe she wrote this recipe down for me, along with a few other family favorites, the first year during my college career where i was living off-campus and had to start cooking meals for myself....oh, that would be 1991, i suppose. here you go...enjoy!

MUSTOCACHALI (verbatim)

1-2# ground beef
1 pkg shell macaroni
1 large can tomatoes
1 bay leaf *(be sure to remove before serving)
2 sm. cans tomato sauce
2-3 strips of bacon - diced
1 sm. can mushrooms
-over
brown ground beef - drain. add rest of ingredients except for noodles - let simmer 1 hour or more. just before serving, boil noodles & add to above -

easy, huh? and strangely DELICIOUS! of course while making it tonight and being the chef-dude that i am, i had to alter and/or decipher some of the ingredient measurements (i.e., 1-2# of ground beef? i mean...c'mon mom! i love you...but there's a BIG difference between 1 and 2 pounds of beef. about 1 pound, i'd say!) so, i made the dish as follows:

1 T. olive oil
1/2 red onion, medium dice
5 strips THICK bacon, diced
1 tsp. chili flake
2 bay leaves
1# ground beef
1 14.5 oz can diced tomatoes (mine had onion, celery and green pepper added)
1 14.5 oz can tomato sauce
1 4 oz can sliced mushrooms
Kosher salt to taste

in a 2 qt. sauce pot, heat olive oil. add onion and bacon. cook to golden brown. add chili flake, bay and ground beef and cook till beef is browned. drain off any unwanted fat. (i did not drain off any fat because FAT IS FLAVOR...especially that from the bacon! YUMYUM!) add canned goodies, reduce heat and simmer uncovered 20 minutes. meanwhile, cook pasta as per usual...al dente, of course, and add to sauce. taste! add salt if needed at the very end! remember...bacon is salty and there is sodium in the canned food items so don't add salt until the sauce is done cooking. i probably added about 1 tsp after adding in my macaroni. as this is comfort food for me, i don't care much about coming up with any variations. however, you can add all kinds of goodies...i dunno, just off the top of my head i think maybe i'd like some more heat in there...maybe some






chopped green chilis?

black olives? chopped garlic?

grated parm...pecorino on top? fresh tomatoes

fresh mushrooms .....???



you could take it into "CHEF-OVERDRIVE" and deglaze with wine....use chicken stock...and so on and so forth! but, i like it just the way my mother made it.

belly full and quite content, i wondered about the name of this dish...its origins, variations, etc. i wondered if perhaps my mother just made it up...or learned it from her mother...or sister...or from another mommy in our neighborhood...or...or...or...my mind roamed with possibilities. i googled "mustocachali". no match by name. i "googed" some of the ingredients and the closest thing i found to my mother's concoction was "goulash". i don't consider this goulash. i consider it a little piece of heaven that has fallen from the sky ....much like the rain that, even now, i can hear making oh so much noise outside and that which inspired me to cook this meal tonight and, ultimately, share with you....whomever you may be.

***** UPDATE *****

so, i'm cruizin' thru the grocery store a couple of weeks ago...like i do; LIST...in hand....AND...listed in the order of how the items fall in the store (just like mother taught me!)starting to the far left in the produce and ending in the bakery/deli so as not to waste any time! (i'm like that, you know! OH! by the way, **PET PEEVE** if you've parked your shopping cart on one side of the aisle and your rear end (ahem! EUPHEMISM!) occupies the space between your cart and the goods on the shelf before you as you compare the sodium content of this "33% less sodium" condensed soup vs. the "other brand"...OR...if you're meanding aimless thru the meat section trying to decide, "whats for dinner tonight?", and you see me coming your way, please step aside! i'm one of those shoppers that knows why i'm there... what i'm getting... and where it's at...MOVE IT! and, thank you!) anyway...

MOVING ON...

picture if you will:

i'm zippin' down the pasta / asian / kosher aisle

(a goofy, catch-all aisle, huh? like...why is that hot tub/ spa stores also sell billiard tables?)

when... all of the sudden .....SHABLAMMY!!!!

i was .....ENLIGHTENED! TRULY...TRULY ENLIGHTENTED!!!

God...

Buddha....

AND... Yahweh...

i swear it, all heard my plea,

"what the heck is mustacochali?"

and wanted desperately for me to know.

for lo, and behold!

on the shelf....right in front of my eyes...

(I'm CERTAIN Yahweh flipped the bill for those slotting-fees, lest Zagbrobbagaghra and BellyBuddhaBoy consider him a MISER!!)

gleaming oh so brightly...

like the Virgin Mary...
munching on fortune cookies...
singing, "I have a little dreidel. I made it out of clay. And when it's dry and ready. Then dreidel I shall play!", ...

was the answer to my question; a box...of pasta....labled, "MOSTACCIOLI"!!!

so there you have it:

3 out of 4 dieties agree, that my mother's recipe, "mustacochali", is, without a doubt, i think, this heavenly and totally tubular pasta!

PRAISE BE TO R'AMEN!

wallflowers